The aim of the course is for students to understand the impact of the active ingredients of dermato-cosmetics on the biochemical function of the skin. The mechanism of action, and the incorporation in dermato-cosmetics of substances acting against chrono-aging, environmental aging i.e photo-aging are described.
The goal of the course is for students to understand the principles of the design and development of dermato-cosmetic formulations with bioactive substances. Cosmetics that contain bio-active substances and possess a dermato-cosmetic activity along with dermatological properties and can support the activity of pharmaceuticals are often called dermato-cosmetics
Learning outcomes
After the end of the course students will be able to:
- Understand the mechanism of action of bioactive agents used in dermato-cosmetics
- Solve stability problems of the bioactive substances incorporated in the cosmetics
- Perform experiments and to determine the physicochemical stability of the finished products
- Know the criteria of the selection of the packaging material and to take under consideration potential incompatibilities between ingredients and packaging
- Design and develop in a laboratory scale, multi-functional formulation of advanced dermato-cosmetics-skin care products with active substances such as herbal extracts, skin anti-oxidants, peptides, healing compounds and delivery systems i.e cyclodextrines and liposomes for the increase of dermal absorption and the stability of active ingredients
SYLLABUS
Theory
1. Face cleansing emulsions. Mechanism of action. Moisturization of keratin, Impact of surfactants to the hydration of skin keratin. Moisturizing agents. Emollients-Mechanisms of action. Hydrocarbons, Fatty alcohols, Esters, Herbal oils, Herbal extracts.
2. Hygroscopic agents. Incorporation in cosmetics-Mechanism of action. Multi-alcohols, Carbohydrates, acids and their salts.
3. Formulation of hand protective emulsions, body moisturizing emulsified lotions, vanishing creams and base-creams for the application of make-up products.
4. Multi-phase dispersed systems based on silicones. Anhydrous emulsions, non- emulsified cleansing products.
5. Introduction to delivery systems of active ingredients. Liposomes and cyclodextrins. Stability. Dermal absorption of the actives through delivery systems. Application to cosmetics and skin biomedical products.
6. Dermato-cosmetics. New active ingredients, skin anti-oxidants for the treatment of aging, environmental aging i.e. photoaging. Mechanism of action.
7. Oligopeptides in anti-aging products of topical skin application. Incorporation, stability, dermal absorption. Peptides with anti-oxidant activity, growth-factors mimicking peptides, decorin analogs, peptides “acting” on neurotransmitters.
8. Biochemistry of melanin synthesis. Skin lighteners-mechanism of action.
9. Healing. Healing agents and actives. Healing peptides. Herbal ingredients with healing activity, Silicones as healing films.
10. Dermal permeability enhancers. Mechanism of action.
11. Cellulitis, active ingredients for the topical treatment cellulitis. Mechanism of action.
12. Τοning and astringent lotions. Herbal constituents and extracts for alcoholic and non-alcoholic lotions.
13. Acne. Products for acne. Mechanism of action of active ingredients. Antiseptic ingredients, exfoliating products, sebum-controlling agents, anti-inflammatory agents.
14. Introduction to the packaging of cosmetic products. Comparison of advantages and disadvantages between plastic packaging and glass. Propellants. Incompatibility between active ingredients and packaging.
Laboratory exercises
1. Determination of type of emulsions
2. Solubilization. Techniques for the a) selection of the best solubilizer for a given perfume and) b the minimal concentration of the solubilizer for the solubilization of a the perfume.
3. Stability of cosmetic products. Determination of water in cosmetic products. Thermal method. Azeotropic distillation.
4. Rheology. Determination of the viscosity. Newtonian and non-Newtonian products
5. Emulsified cleansing lotion. Development, determination of the viscocity, rheology diagrams, pH measurement.
6. Facial liquid cleanser-one phase. Development, determination of viscosity-comparison of the rheological properties with emulsified systems, rheology diagrams, pH measurement.
7. Exofliating cream. Development, incorporation of microbeads (polyethylene or herbal)
8. Liquid make-up. Development. Techniques for the suspension of powders in emulsified products.
9. Anti-aging cream. Incorporation of a tocopherol-cyclodextrin system. Stability-Accelerated test.
10. Anti-aging cream, Incorporation of all-trans retinol to liposomes. Stability study. Accelerated test.
11. Anti-aging serum. Incorporation of liposomal peptides in gel. Viscosity enhancers and liposomes.