BASIC PRINCIPLES OF DERMATO-COSMETIC SCIENCE

The aim of the course is for students to understand the development of the Dermato-Cosmetic Science and to learn to a great extent the chemical structures and the physicochemical properties of the basic ingredients used for the development, formulation, physicochemical and microbiological stability of the dermato-cosmetic products.
Cosmetics that contain bio-active substances and possess a dermato-cosmetic activity along with dermatological properties and can support the activity of pharmaceuticals often called dermato-cosmetics.
The goal of the course is for the students to learn the molecular approach to design dermato-cosmetics and products of skin topical application

LEARNING OUTCOMES
After the end of the course students will be able to know:

• The physicochemical properties of the basic ingredients that are used for the design, development and formulation, physicoshemical and microbiological stability of cosmetic products
• The physicochemical properties of multiphase dispersed systems that are used in the formulation of cosmetic products
• The application of multiphase dispersed systems for the development of cosmetic products
• To design simple formulations of dermato-cosmetic products

SYLLABUS

1. Products of skin topical application, introduction to the Basic Aspects of Cosmetic Science. The social impact of Cosmetic Science. Basic Principles of Skin Physiology. Application of the cosmetics to the skin. Classification of the cosmetics by their type of action, type of cosmetic formulation and chemical synthesis. Basic principles for the designing a new formulation. Criteria for the choice of the ingredients. Precautions.
2. Multiphase dispersed systems. Surfactants. Interphase. Mechanism of absorption of the surfactants to the interphase.
3. Classification of surfactants according to their chemical structure: Hydrocarbons, Classification of the surfactants by the Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)-activity.
4. Carbon-silicon surfactants. Classification and physicochemical mode of action. Surfactants derived from biotechnological resources-Biosurfactants.
5. Colloids. Thermodynamic approach of colloids. Electrical and physicochemical properties of colloids. Stability. Solubilization, Micelles.
6. Emulsions. Emulsification-Thermodynamics. Classification and determination of the various types of emulsions. Classification of emulsifiers. (Gibbs, Langmuir). Criteria for the selection of the type of emulsifiers.
7. Stability and Instability of emulsions. Thermodynamics.
8. Stability tests of the emulsions, Accelerated tests.
9. Preservation of cosmetic products. Annex VI 76/768 EEC, 2003/15/EC, 2007/17 /EC and 2007/22/EC. Classification of preservatives by their chemical structures, alternative preservatives, self-preserving cosmetics. Preservative efficacy tests for topical skin products according to the European Pharmacopoeia and Greek legislation.
10. Rheology, thixotropy, antithixotropy. The influence of rheological properties of the systems on the development and manufacturing process of cosmetics.
11. Oxidation of cosmetic ingredients. Catalysis of oxidation. Classification of antioxidants and mechanism of action of phenolics, Natural antioxidants for the stability of cosmetic formulations.
12. Colors. Basic principles. Natural colors. Synthetic colors. Inorganic colors. Pigments. Stability of colors. Chemical properties.
13. Introduction to the basic method of scaling up. Introduction to the labeling and regulatory affairs of cosmetic products
14. The Science of Cosmetics-future technologies. Cosmetics and environment.